3 Words | Sexology

The Wellcome Collection - Institute of Sexology

[Above pictures taken from the guardian websites, 

no photography was allowed inside the exhibition]

[fortunately, I managed to take a few secret pictures]

On starting our new 2 week project named '3 Words' I decided that my museum of choice would be the Wellcome Collection; Institute of Sexology exhibition. It was unlike any of the other options, and I felt would produce the most interesting ideas. My three chosen words from the brief; Francis Bacon, Mark and Chaotic, fitted well into the mood and objects within this exhibition. Throughout the exhibition phallic emblems were prominent, however in the photographs and models the women seemed to be in power. Both Marie Stokes and Masters explored the concept of female empowerment in sex also. As I walked around the collections I made sure I read into every object listed, the link with sex into my words was triggered after watching the video from the Washington University girls only campus. The college girls included straight girls, gay girls, transgender and transsexual girls. Some who didn't identify between sex and gender, some that were religious. Something I picked up on was that the video was slightly dated, yet the girls views on sex and gender were very modern. 

My first word Francis Bacon, links extremely well with this concept. As a gay man condemned by his highly religious catholic parents, he turned to alcohol which ultimately killed him. LGBT rights are something that I have noticed are becoming much bigger, not only in London but in other Countries. About a month ago, during my visit to Paris I witnessed a gay pride protest in the back streets of Paris. I think this empowerment of identity is something that would be exciting to explore in Fashion. Jean-Paul Gaultier, a favourite designer of mine looks into body confidence and sexual empowerment. Perhaps looking into his muses and concepts could help influence how I decide to proceed with this project. However, I do not want to 'recreate' something that has already been done.

Much of the exhibition looked into fetishism and the science behind sex, many people kept charts, drew comics and photographed intimate parts of their lives. One photographer's work I was particularly drawn to was Zanele Muholi's collection of pictures of African lesbian women. Muholi left out images on the wall of the women who had died as a result of illness or circumstance related to their sexual choices. This concept of leaving negative spaces is something I wish to pursue in translating it into a fashion piece. It makes the viewer think what was meant to be there, what happened to leave the gap. Which brings me to my next word; 'mark'. The space left an invisable 'mark' of the consequences of being different in an unaccepting society. Much of how I believe Bacon must have felt during the majority of his short life. The photographs themselves were extremely beautiful, almost unedited. The image of a lesbian in many's minds is a specific image of a butch androgynous girl, I think this is what Muholi aimed to eradicate. Removing the stereotype and therefore removing pre-judgements.

The second exhibition I was meant to see was the 'Jack the Ripper' tour, however it wasn't open until 7.30 that evening. In this case I decided to visit a few of the places that are known to be locations of his murders to see what the area looked like now. This wasn't that helpful either, without a tour guide or someone that knows much of the History of East London, the places were just corner shops and clothes shops. Due to the time limit on this project, I would have prefered to return to do this tour when it was showing, but instead I have decided to change my second exhibition to the Tate Briton 'Late at Tate' discussion panel from Nazir Mahzar on 'Fashion Vs Music' on Friday. 

Deconstruct Reconstruct | Shoot

[Lookbook for garment, photographed by me]

Final three images

Model - Cornelia

Deconstruct Reconstruct | Stand Development

After careful consideration, I decided that the only way my designs could move forward was to start cutting up each individual garment to work them onto the stand together.

Deconstruct Reconstruct | Development

One way of developing the mannequin work to designs was to use the fabric in 2D form. I photocopied each item and cut out details and sections that I felt were interesting. Above are a few examples of the designs. Designing in this way was much easier than trying to draw from the mannequin, it produced new shapes and silhouettes and it also highlighted where details from the garments could be placed.

As well as cutting out the photocopied fabrics, I decided to change the colouring of the photocopies to see if it made certain details and shapes stand out more. The item I decided on doing this on was the stripped polo shirt and the suit trousers. Both produced completely different silhouettes and the colour change really enhanced certain details. Again I cut these out and placed them onto drawn illustrations. Although this wouldn't be possible in the time frame, it gave me ideas of manipulating the original fabrics, as well as changing the items around to create new items. The fabric that made the item could be altered, with bleach, dye and paint. The bleach could give a similar effect to the negative photocopy, producing bright whites and reversed colours.

I started drawing up designs from these collages. As all of my previous projects have been conceptual I decided to make something interesting in silhouette and detail, but also ready to wear. So instead of taking the full shapes of these collages, I focused on the details or individual shapes produced; for example, shoulders, collars or sleeves.

Deconstruct Reconstruct | Mannequin Work

Using the collection of garments I brought in, I started pinning, rolling and layering each item onto the mannequin. Using legs as sleeves, collars and added interest. Fastenings as necklines, detail and shoulders. Arms as collars and seam lines, and so on. Each item I made sure I worked with in at least 3 different ways, to produce as many good outcomes as I could.

When working on these in my sketchbook I decided to take inspiration from the collages and work onto different media, layering and drawing into each design. Sometimes designing straight from the mannequin, including some observational drawings alongside illustrations and shape tracing. This generated many more ideas on shape and silhouette, as well as which materials worked well in cohesion and what details and features of each fabrics were strongest. 

I found the more structured clothing like the suit trousers worked really well against the soft materials of the poloneck. The details on the fastenings of the suit trousers produced some really interesting shapes, and mixing these with the rolled up sleeves or collar produced from the top created some great contrasts. I wasn't so keen on the manipulation of the jeans, as it was more a fabrication than a new garment. Reviewing my experiments, I felt I pushed each item and produced some interesting garments. 

I feel this project doesn't need a 'concept' title as such, but instead I am going to remain free with how I work and the ideas produced. I shall continue to develop each aspect, through designing and mannequin work. Without an individual title, the garment will show a clear development from how each item began. 

Deconstruct Reconstruct | Collages

Commencing the introduction to the new project, I collected my old Vogues, Elles, and Teen Glamour to find images of body parts and clothes to mix up and match to new places. After making a collection of images from various books; including Maison Martin Margiela's book and 'Minimalism and Fashion' I mood boarded various ideas that I could carry through to my collages. 

Once I made 6 collages, mainly focusing on the details of the clothes, and the silhouettes you could create through changing where each item was places I decided they looked extremely plain. I wasn't as inspired as I hoped I would be so I decided to work into them.

Printing them onto tracing paper, some in colour and some in black and white, I started to cut out shapes, leave negative spaces and rotate them to place them on top of the original image. As well as this, I used acetate and a permanent marker to draw out a few main shapes and lines.

I was extremely happy with how they turned out, and after working in a few different mediums, I felt much more inspired. From these images, I will turn to the mannequin, alternating where garments could be places, and trying to recreate a few of the obscure body shapes I made in my collages. This technique of using collage with image manipulation has worked well, and one I hope to use in my later work and illustrations.

Deconstruct Reconstruct | New Project

We were just given a new project called 'Deconstruct Reconstruct' which again will only be over 2 weeks. Ahead of starting we were given the online handbook of this part of the project, and so I read and analysed which bits of the brief I needed to look into further, and what I would need to bring in, in advance.

Within the brief there was a variety of designers who use this deconstruct/reconstruct method within their own designs; something I really strongly agree with. The idea of sustainable fashion is a brilliant way of bringing about and modernising thing's people may already have, being inventive with minimal resources and also maintaining the environment. Particular favourites of mine who use these ideas include; Maison Martin Margiela, Comme des garcons and Jean-Paul Gaultier. Although they all use the concept in different ways, all have successfully positively presented it to work into their brand. Personally the designers style I will research into further will be Margiela and Gaultier.

The items I brought in were:
Suit trousers
Polo-neck Longsleeved top
Jeans
Lace dress
Sequinned dress

Purple strirrup sights

Bikini tops

To start my book off I collected various magazines and picked and cut out images, for both 'reconstruct' collages and some mood boards. Once I made the reconstruct collages, I photocopied them onto tracing paper and cut out main shapes, and worked over them onto both tracing paper and acetate. I feel this project focuses mainly on both detail and silhouette. So when working into the images I highlighted both detail and main shapes. I experimented with the figure as well as the clothing positions, allowing limbs and features to vary in size, and garments to be places wherever. To enhance these and take them further I will work from them as inspiration onto mannequin work and also in my illustrations.

Then moving onto a mannequin, I manipulated each garment to create new shapes and details. For example I used the jeans/suit trousers as a collar with a shoulder piece. The stiffness in the fabric allowed me to structure it freely around the neck, using the fastenings as collar detail and shape. Doing this allowed me to get a better feel for what I could do with my clothes to renovate them. I will continue this throughout the project, photographing and illustrating as I go.